Wilson Benchmark

Several years ago, Tom took us up Wilson Peak near Bryce Canyon in his Can-Am.  Surveying the surrounding landscape from the top, one particular red-walled sandstone butte immediately caught our eye.  When we got home, Kent began to study Google Earth to see if there might be a route we could use to summit this formation.  He was surprised to discover not only a possible route, but a 1929 benchmark waiting on the summit.  That was more than enough to get him motivated.  Today it's time to find out for ourselves:  Can we actually make it to the top?

Wilson Benchmark
Wilson Peak is to the left . . . Why wouldn't you put Wilson Benchmark on Wilson Peak??

We parked our truck shortly after entering Hillsdale Canyon, which is on the southside of the butte . . .
Our plan is to walk eastward, past the butte, and ascend from the backside
(Wilson Benchmark is the butte to the left of the Ponderosa Pine)

Almost immediately we were greeted with this nice window formation . . .
We might have to go back and spend some time exploring the smaller buttes that guard the fortress

Western Wallflower

It was interesting to find conglomerate rocks mixed in among the red sandstone

After about 1.5 miles we turned north and followed a wash . . .
This picture makes the wash look like it was filled with annoying obstacles . . .
It was, but nothing too bad . . . this picture was more the exception . . . Allison says otherwise!

After about a mile, we climbed out of the wash and headed for a ridge we hoped would take us to the top

On the ridge . . . the plan is working well!
We were surprised at how far away the peak looked . . . we still have a mile to go
(That "little" peak behind the two dead trees is the crux of the hike . . . very, very steep and poor footing)

Nearing the top of the little peak . . .
Kent is hoping that we don't have to descend to a saddle before heading back up for the final push

Good news . . . we were able to walk a ridge directly over to Wilson Benchmark!

More conglomerate rock . . . sure seems out-of-place, especially up here

We must be getting higher . . . Bristlecone pines are starting to appear

Finally, at the top!
Notice the reference marker pointing to the benchmark that Kent is standing by

Wilson Benchmark (1929) . . . Elevation 8,650 ft
(In 1971 the USGS made this observation, "Reached by helicopter.  Good landing at station". . . are they talking about the same peak??  No way I would have wanted to be in that helicopter!)

Looking back towards what remains of the tripod that once stood over the benchmark

Looking southwest to where we parked our truck . . .
That's Hillsdale Ranch near the small pond that is also visible

The obligatory selfie from the two benchmark baggers!

Heading back down . . .
That's Wilson Peak directly behind Kent and in the distance you can see Powell Point

We decided to try a different route on our way back . . .
The arrow points to the ridge we decided to walk down and the wash we walked up is on the other side . . .
The arrow is also pointing to an interesting find that we made and is pictured two frames below

Stemless Townsend Daisy

Here's what the arrow was pointing to . . .
It's a survey marker and the tree behind it had a blaze cut into it

1925
Makes you wonder how many people, over the hundred years, have actually seen this marker?

After working around some cliffs on the ridge, we decide to drop down to this drainage . . .
The road we'll walk back to our truck is just a couple of hundred yards down the wash

Almost back . . .
A final look at the window we saw earlier, only this time from the other side

It was fun to see these pronghorn just lazing around

A good sight to see!

Here's a Google Earth shot of our route
(Click on the picture for an enlarged view)

This hike was much harder than expected!  All total we ended up hiking just about 6 miles with 1500 ft of total ascent.  Due to the 2025 France Canyon fire, many of the washes had eroded out portions of the road that heads deeper into Hillsdale Canyon.  We suspect that the road will be passable later this year and this will cut off nearly 3 miles from the total distance.  If you're interested in our GPS tracks, just email us and we'll send you our route.  Click here for a link to Tom's peakbagger.com post for a topo map of the area.  All-in-all it was a good day and a sense of accomplishment to "bag" another benchmark!

Grand Wash

A few days earlier, when we were at Cassidy Arch, Allison asked if we could fit the Grand Wash hike into our plans.  We mulled it over for a while and decided we could probably do this short hike before we headed home Sunday morning.  Then Kent had a "brilliant" idea (scary thought!):  If he dropped Allison at the main trailhead and drove around to meet her at the Highway 24 side, she could enjoy a through-hike without retracing her steps.  Turned out that it worked like a charm!

As we noted in our Cassidy Arch post, both trails use the same trailhead for their starting points

Amazing what the effects freeze-thaw cycles can have on what once was a small crack . . .
When water freezes, it expands by roughly 9%, acting like a wedge that pries the rock apart and widens the crack.

An interesting stained wall . . . this is often called desert varnish
The varnish is a thin "patina" composed mainly of manganese and iron oxide (rust) mixed with clay particles . . .
It was a favorite of the "Ancient Ones" to carve their petroglyphs into

The spots on this slab of sandstone caught Allison's attention . . .
After she took the picture she discovered it looked just like a rabbit!

About mid-way through the wash the walls began to narrow

At it's narrowest point the walls are about fifteen feet apart . . .
Up until 1962, when Highway 24 was paved, people used to drive their cars through this wash!

The narrow portion only lasts for about a quarter of a mile

While the Wash never becomes a "slot canyon" it comes fairly close

Do you suppose Butch Cassidy might have used this as a hideout?

Hey, who's this?
Kent decided to walk up the Wash from Highway 24 and see how far he could go before meeting Allison

There were a few little caves to explore along the way

It was interesting to see all the "Swiss cheese" holes on this cliff filled with rocks . . .
At first glance it looked as if they may have been placed there by flash floods . . .
But on closer examination, it was obvious people had tossed stones from the wash bed into them!

Heading back . . . the Highway is just around the corner

One last stop for a fun family photo-op

Grand Wash passes under Highway 24 and empties into the Fremont River . . . where the trail ends

 

Allison loved this quick, easy walk - it was the perfect way to stretch her legs before the three-hour drive home.  The trail offered flexibility:  It can be hiked as a 2.2-mile one-way trek with a car shuttle, or as a 4.4-mile out-and-back route.  If you're short on time or just passing through Capitol Reef, it's worth stopping at the Highway 24 trailhead for a short hike before continuing on your journey!

Navajo Knobs

The Navajo Knobs trail was the main reason we decided to visit Capitol Reef National Park . . . and it certainly didn't disappoint!  The trail ascends a series of slickrock benches to the Rim Overlook where we peered down on the Fruita Orchards.  From here we continued to the sandstone domes known as the Navajo Knobs and the end-of-the-trail.  At the summit we were treated to 360-degree views of the Waterpocket Fold and the Henry Mountains - another of our memorable hikes from years past!

The trail to the Navajo Knobs begins at the Hickman Bridge trailhead

After following the Fremont River for a short distance, the trail switchbacks up to a 
white sandstone layer, where Hickman Bridge is located

Shortly, after reaching the top of the switchbacks, we came to the Navajo Knobs trail

The Hickman Bridge Overlook is a short walk of about half a mile past the junction . . .
It was nice that we were able to see the Bridge without having to add an extra 1.5 miles (r/t) to our hike!

After viewing Hickman Bridge we walked sandstone ramps as we made our way towards the Rim Overlook

While it is never particularly steep, it does maintain a consistent uphill pitch for the entirety of the hike

After 1,000 feet of elevation gain, and two-miles of hiking, we reached the Rim Overlook

It was fun to look down on the Fruita Orchards as we took a much needed break

Then it was back to more sandstone ramps

Finally, we were able to see our destination . . . as you can see, we've still got a long way to go!
This picture also illustrates the incline of the trail we mentioned earlier

Looking down on the rock formation known as "The Castle"

A typical section of the trail . . .
It was kind of like being in "no man's land" . . . always walking a sandstone shelf positioned between cliffs

Working around a drainage to get to the next layer of sandstone

We're getting closer!

Finally, the Knobs come into view . . . I believe we're going to make it!

We're suppose to be able to stand on the very top . . . 
The trail wraps around the bottom of the formation towards the trees on the right . . .
Maybe we can get up over there??

Ah, yes, this looks like a route to the top

Views become expansive as we neared the summit

While not technically the top, Kent was content on waiting for Allison to scramble to the true summit

Allison made it!
Looking back along the Waterpocket Fold (that was our path) and in the valley below is the Visitor Center

Allison finally convinced Kent that it wasn't too bad on top, so he joined her
(The top could probably hold five people at once)

After a half hour rest, it was time to begin the long trek back

At least it was all downhill!
It was interesting to see the rock formations from a different angle . . . this one is known as "The Stegosaur"

A beautiful shot of the Waterpocket Fold and the Henry Mountains . . .
This picture shows the impressive fold in the earth's crust that goes on for a hundred miles!

Hey, there's Fern's Nipple (right of center) that we saw from Cassidy Arch

Almost back to the intersection with the Hickman Bridge trail

On our way back to Torrey we stopped to take this picture, the arrow points to the Knobs
. . . it really puts things into perspective!
(You can also see "The Castle" right of center)

Here's a Google Earth shot of our route and the highlights we experienced along the way
(Click on the picture for an enlarged view)

Wow, what a great hike!  Needless to say, but we were tired after this one!  Most trail guides say that this is a 9.5 mile (r/t) hike with around 1,600 ft of elevation gain.  While we found the mileage to be correct, the ascent was closer to 2,100 ft and total elevation to be around 2,500 ft.  What's truly amazing is that we gained all this elevation over 4.5 miles without ever using a single switchback!  For a detailed route description and topo maps, click here for a post by Andrew Wojtanik that he did when he visited Capitol Reef National Park.