Stevens Lakes

For our last day of hiking in Montana, we had originally planned to hike to the St. Mary's Peak Lookout.  However, the weather shifted overnight, and by morning, the clouds were hanging low over the peaks.  So, we made a quick decision to change our plans and instead hiked to Stevens Lakes, near Mullan, Idaho, where the weather was beginning to clear.  This turned out to be a great choice!  We really enjoyed these beautiful Bitterroot Mountain Lakes, and we only had overcast skies to contend with.  It's always great when a plan comes together!

Leaving Missoula, on I-90, and heading west towards Spokane . . .
As you can see, the clouds are beginning to lift on the mountain tops . . . maybe, just maybe, we'll get a hike in!

We exited I-90 at Mullan, Idaho and then traveled a dirt road south, for about a mile,
to the trailhead parking area

Habitat for a bird of some sort . . . 
Probably a woodpecker!

Huckleberries!
In many sections, the trail was lined with these wonderful treats

The main trail from the trailhead to Lower Stevens Lake includes both short steep sections
and moderate terrain through forested area
(This description was taken from Washington Trails Association and is very apropos)

Indian Paintbrush about to bloom

One section of the trail took us through a rather large and lush basin . . .
Hey, Bear!

Columbian monkshood . . . so uniquely designed! 

In the middle of the basin, we came to this nice waterfall . . . 
The stream comes from the Lower Stevens Lake outlet about 500 ft above us

That last 500 ft took us through this rather large rock slide . . .
You can vaguely see the trail (and switchback) above Kent's right shoulder
(Click on the picture for an enlarged view)

Police Car moth

 

Indian Paintbrush and Common Yarrow

Rock Clematis

After switchbacking through the rockslide, another waterfall came into view . . .
Interesting enough, this small falls is much like those of the southwest found in slot canyons . . .
Almost felt like we were back home . . . except for the forest and moss!

Lower Stevens Lake . . .
After about 2.5 miles we ran out of switchbacks and topped out at the Lake

Subalpine fir tree . . . notice the cones grow upward

We were feeling good, so we decided to continue on around the west side of the lake
and head for the upper basin about a half-mile further south

We had a little trouble locating the trail to the upper lake, but after "sloshing" through a small bog, we came upon the main route . . . coming back down we followed the trail and found where we had gone awry!
 (For future reference: As you pass a granite peninsula, continue on, staying near the lakeshore)

Upper Stevens Lake . . .
The clouds were still hiding Stevens Peak, but we felt fortunate that they lifted enough to give us partial views

Swainson's Thrush 

On our way back, and near the bottom of the trail, we detoured off the path and made
our way down to East Fork of Willow Creek to admire this beautiful no-name falls

Here's a shot of our GPX tracks overlaid on a Google Earth Map . . .
Hopefully, it will help you better visualize the hike!
(Click on the image for an enlarged photo)

This hike was just what the doctor ordered!  It gave us a chance to stretch our legs and get one more hike in before heading back home to Utah, the next day.  Altogether, we hiked a little over 6 miles (r/t) and gained about 1,850 ft.  If you're interested in doing this hike, please click on this link for the NaughtyHiker's post (Naughty is his dog!).  Make sure to take some time to read his "About" tab . . . we really liked how he refers to himself as "The Scribe" and Naughty as the "person!"

 

Red Mountain

Although our original plans for an extended stay in Helena didn't work out, our research into local hiking trails led us to an interesting one called Red Mountain.  What drew us in was the promise of incredible 360-degree views for less than two-miles of hiking, plus the opportunity to see the unique mining community of Rimini.  It sounded like the perfect adventure as we made our way back to Missoula, and we couldn't resist the allure this hike offered!

Wow, Red Mountain (8,150 ft) looks higher than we were expecting . . .
We thought this was supposed to be a short hike!

Thankfully, we were able to drive up to about 6,500 ft where there was a small pullout . . .
Directly across the road from the parking area was a well used social trail that took us to the top

Bolete mushroom

The trail follows a small unnamed creek . . .
It then climbs out of the draw and begins a steep ascent of the mountain

Puffball mushroom

Bear grass near the end of its bloom

This Spruce Grouse stood still . . .  thinking we didn't see him (or her)!

Working our way out of the draw and heading for the steepest part of the trail . . .
We were surprised to find trees that were damaged by bark beetles . . .
For some reason, or another, we only considered this a problem for the southwestern states

Let the steep part begin (7,250 ft) . . .
Without a doubt, this section was the hardest part of the trail . . . 
It took us from the base of the mountain and skirted through and alongside a rock slide
 before finally topping out at a saddle (7,800 ft) . . . in just a half-mile!
(Don't expect many switchbacks . . . it's just straight up!)

Once at the saddle, things improved considerably . . .
We followed the trail for .5 mile, and enjoyed a nice leisurely stroll to the top

This is the only 'red' we saw on Red Mountain

A lot of the trees, on the ridgeline, had a thick covering of moss on their northsides . . .
At times it made the sparse forest seem almost enchanted

Kent at the high point of Red Mountain . . . 
Once on top, all obstacles are removed that would block your 360° views in every direction

What's better than making it to the top?
Making it to the top and locating a 1934 benchmark!

Click on the picture for an enlarged view that provides a good feeling of just how barren the top is

There were several rock cairns located in different area on the top . . . 
This was one of our favorites!
That's Chessman Reservoir in the distance . . . it's were the city of Helena stores their water supply

After enjoying a nice break, we headed back down through the mossy forest

It's hard to tell just how steep the trail is in this picture . . . but believe us it was steep!
Remember, just take baby steps!

Almost through the rockslide and on to a more manageable (enjoyable) grade

Near the bottom of the trail is an old collapsed log cabin . . .
We're almost back!

Once back to the car, we drove down the road for about a half mile to this "old" flume
(It looks old, and probably is, but this aqueduct is still being used today as part of Helena's water system)

The aqueduct takes water from Banner Creek and carries it 5 miles to Chessman Reservoir . . . 
if you're so inclined you can hike along beside the aqueduct, just remember it's 5 miles back!
Chessman is the Reservoir that we could see from the top of Red Mountain . . . 

As we worked our way back to the highway, we spent some time enjoying the old mining town of Remini . . . 
(Click this link to "Ghost Towns and More" to see a short five minute video that examines the towns origins)

There were many interesting buildings . . . 
This one was a store front, with a lady mannequin, holding a mandolin, looking down on us as we passed by

One last look at Red Mountain, from Remini, before heading for Missoula . . . 

Many thanks to Rod Benson (aka "Big Sky Walker") who posted this hike (and the aqueduct history) on his website.  Please click on the link above and take some time reading his post and looking at his pictures . . . he's a long-time resident of Helena and shares his knowledge of the area in an interesting format.  You can also find directions to the trailhead (which were spot on) if you decide to do this fun, but strenuous short hike (3.5 miles r/t, with about 1,700 ft of elevation gain).

If nothing else, take the 8-mile paved road to Rimini.  While you could call it a Montana Ghost Town, there are several residents who still live here and they have done a fantastic job of keeping it's rich history alive!  Many of the cute homes have been restored with modern amenities.  Certainly, worth taking a short diversion off the highway for!

Gates of the Mountains

We arrived in Helena earlier than expected and found ourselves with some free time.  While we were at the state capitol building, Allison suggested a boat ride on the Missouri River that she had read about.  We tried to make reservations but missed the cutoff time.  On the spur of the moment, we decided to try for standby tickets and it worked out!

The Sacajawea 2 is a 50-foot wooden boat that seats 89 passenger and has been in service since 1967 . . .
Our captain, who was also the tour guide, was very knowledgeable and informative . . .
She has been doing this tour for eleven years!

Making our way down the Missouri towards the Gates of the Mountains . . .
As you can see, the scenery was outstanding!

We have arrived and are now "officially in the recreation area

A beautiful picture of the typical scenery you find as you make your way down the Missouri

Many arches were pointed out by the captain . . .
She did a good job of maneuvering the boat back & forth so each side of the boat could see them

Although not a great picture, we were surprised to see petroglyphs in an alcove along the river
(Click on the picture to enlarge it)

We had never heard of the Mann Gulch Fire and the tragedy that took place here in 1949 . . . 
13 smoke jumpers lost their lives, less than an hour after touching down, when the winds shifted and overtook them as they ran up the gulch hoping to escape the flames
(Click on the picture for an enlarged photo)

Mann Gulch

A memorial can be found at a rest area where the boat stops to let guests take a break before heading back . . .
We've created a link that will direct you to a 6-minute Montana PBS video that provides additional details on how this tragedy played out on that devastating day in 1949

The captain made two sweeping moves across the river near this point . . . 
By doing so, she created an illusion that made the cliffs, near the river edge come together, as if gates were closing and then reopening, as she reversed back across the river

Working our way back up the Missouri

Another arch

When we were almost back to the dock, this Lockheed Martin C130J flew over us heading downstream . . .
You may be saying, "That's nice, but what's so interesting about that?"
It just so happened to be a plane that the Forest Service uses for dropping smokejumpers, much like the one used by those who lost their lives in Mann Gulch 

We're not sure you can find a more inexpensive way to spend an enjoyable afternoon on the Missouri River.  Tickets were only $15/person for a two-hour ride . . . reservations are not available the day of the ride, but can be bought in person, like we did.  We would suggest trying to get on the Sacajawea 2 (the smaller of the two boats that operate) because it doesn't have plexiglass windows overhead, nor a bathroom.  Because it doesn't have a bathroom it makes a stop at a rest area along the river, while the other boat turns around and heads back.  Once back at the dock, make sure to head for the concession stand and order some huckleberry ice cream . . . it was the best we had on our Montana trip!  For more information, click this link, for the Gates of the Mountains tours.