HWY 12 Benchmarks

After hiking Upper Calf Creek Falls, we began our trip home.  To make our time last a little longer in the Boulder/Escalante area, we thought we'd add a few benchmarks, that were just off HWY 12 to our list.  Both Calf Creek Falls & Mamie benchmarks are just off the road and were a fun diversion to break up the three-hour ride home.

First up was what we are calling Calf Creek Falls benchmark . . . 
It's actually a section marker, but shows up on the NGS website as a benchmark . . . 
As you can see there weren't too many good pull outs!

We finally found one and parked the truck . . .
As we were heading across the road, Allison said she saw a mule deer shed

Kent couldn't believe that she found this 4-point antler right on the road easement
(Do you realize how few antlers we have found on our hikes over the years?  And this one was laying in plain sight of a well-traveled paved road!)

Oh, yes, the real reason we are here . . . Calf Creek Benchmark (1937)

The NGS description said we'd find it attached to the end of a metal pipe . . . still here after all those years!

Back on HWY 12 and enjoying our last look down into Calf Creek

On past trips, we have been intrigued by the Kiva Koffeehouse . . . it always has a ton of cars
So, today, Allison suggested we stop so she could get a mocha for the road . . . 
We were surprised at how nice the coffee shop was . . . it was well designed and had some incredible views, both up and down the Escalante River (click on the link above for more info; apparently they have rooms, as well)

Feel like sipping on your mocha outside the Kiva Koffeehouse?
Here's a couple of chairs that provide a view looking south on the Escalante River

Back on the road and looking up at Head of the Rocks Overlook . . . 
Mamie Benchmark is near the two skyline buttes on the right

300 feet off the road and up a small mesa we found Mamie Benchmark

Mamie Benchmark (named after Mamie Creek to the north) (1959)

We were able to locate reference marker #1 in a dead pinon pine tree . . .
Reference marker #3 was supposed to be in a power pole . . . it had been cut down and removed years ago

Kent trying to find reference marker #2 . . . we're pretty sure it was in this tree that had fallen over . . .
But he was unable to locate it . . . Over 65 years a tree will try to heal the blaze
and will often cover up the copper nail and washer!

A special "shout out" to our friend Tom who got us interested in benchmarks!  We appreciate all the time he has spent showing us how to use the NGS map, record coordinates on our GPS, and to read degrees so we could locate reference marks.  As he has said often, "It adds another layer to my hikes."  We couldn't agree more!  Time to head home!

 

Upper Calf Creek Falls

When we hiked Lower Calf Creek Falls, yesterday, we wondered how many people were aware that there is also an Upper Calf Creek Falls.  It's certainly not as well publicized (in fact, the turnoff isn't even signed from the highway), but we imagine this is mostly due to the limited parking with no facilities.  It's also probably true that these falls certainly couldn't handle the throngs of people that the lower falls sees on a daily basis.  Nonetheless, today was our turn to finally visit them, so we could check them off the list of "You know, we really should do Upper Calf Creek Falls, one-of-these-days!"

Heading out on HWY 12 . . .
This has to be one of the most scenic roads, from start to finish, in America!

Once, again, we started fairly early (8:00am) and were rewarded with an empty parking area

A relatively steep trail almost immediately starts heading down the Navajo Sandstone

Over the years of use, hikers have pushed the small lava boulders to the side of the path . . .
This helps make the trail easily distinguishable as it crosses the slickrock

In places the trail seemed to disappear, but a few rock cairns kept us moving in the right direction . . .
Once we hit the sand, at the bottom of the slickrock, the path leveled out and a well used social trail formed

This bowl was interesting and appears to hold a spring which empties into Calf Creek
(We probably should have taken the time to explore it, but didn't)

Dwarf Sand Verbena

Almost to the Falls . . .
(They are located in the grotto just above Kent)
Probably of more interest to us is the alcove on the left . . . it looks like another spring flows out of it

Upper Calf Creek Falls . . . 
It would have been fun to further explore the base of the falls and alcove, but the trail pushed
through the heavy brush pictured above . . . and most of it looked like poison ivy!

After viewing the Falls from below, we headed back up the side trail to explore the pools at the top

Indian Paintbrush

A nice pool and deep potholes just before the stream drops over the edge

Just a little past the first pool was another with it's own waterfall . . . what a gorgeous spot!
We can only imagine, on a hot summer day, how much use this pool gets!

A nice slab of rock with an interesting pattern near the pools

Never seen this sign before!
(Obviously, this place gets a lot of visitation)

Cottonwood trees getting ready to bloom

One last picture before heading back up to the rim

Remember that path we came down . . . 

Kent pointing to the notch where the trail starts . . . we're almost there!

The final push was a little steep, but nothing too bad . . . 15 minutes later we were at the truck

We were surprised at how short this hike was.  When you're standing on the rim looking down at the Calf Creek drainage it looks a long ways away.  In reality, it was only about a mile and half to the creek.  We were also expecting more water to be going over the falls . . . especially after visiting Lower Calf Creek Falls (just a few miles downstream) the day before.  It seems that there must be several large springs between the falls . . . probably coming out of the bowl and alcove pictured earlier in the post.

If your interested in knowing more about getting to Upper Calf Creek Falls, why don't you check out Road Trip Ryan's post . . . you can find it by clicking here.  He provides a detailed description, maps and a GPS track, all for free.

Hells Backbone & Posey Lookout

It was early afternoon when we completed the Lower Calf Creek Falls trail, so we thought we'd take the longer (mostly unpaved) way back to Escalante by using the Hell's Backbone road.  A majority of this route (38-miles) is on a well graded gravel Forest Service road road that takes you near the top of the Aquarius Plateau before descending into the Upper Escalante River drainage.  Along the way you can see engineering marvels from the 1930's, cross many streams and visit high mountain lakes.  Our only concern was that the road might be blocked by snow, but with our mild winter this wasn't an issue.

Of course, as we were planning our 3-day Escalante getaway, we checked for benchmarks in the area . . . 
This one was right off the road, but we're sure most people pass it, not knowing it's even there

New Home Bench benchmark . . . 1927
(There were no reference markers with this particular benchmark)

At about the 6-mile mark (from where the road turns to gravel), the Hell's Backbone bridge becomes visible . . .
The road begins to switchback over the next 3-miles before topping out at the bridge
(Click on the picture for a larger view of the bridge)

The bridge doesn't look like anything out-of-the-ordinary (other than being a single lane) . . . 
But be prepared for heart stopping views as you cross this 100 ft span that separates two drainages

This interpretive sign is very interesting . . . make sure to stop and read it while you take in the views
(It tells the history of the bridges that have been constructed since the original one in 1933 by the CCC)

This is looking off one side of the bridge into the Sand Creek drainage

The other side looks down on the Death Hollow drainage

After another 3-miles you will come to a turnoff that will take you to Posey Lake

A coworker, of Kent's, said the Posey Lookout Trail would take us to a nice viewpoint of the lake

Okay, so this unplanned hike was not on our list . . . but who could resist a 1/2 mile hike to a 1930's lookout?
(By the way . . . the sign lies . . . it's really 3/4 of a mile!)

What a great little trail!
We met a two-member trail crew at the top . . . it was nice of them to clear the path for us!

At the Posey Lookout

Hard to believe this lookout still stands after 90 years!
(It was in remarkably good condition)

Heading back down through some aspens . . . there was also a small pond off to Kent's right

Almost back to the trailhead which starts at camp site #14

Looking back at the ridge we just ascended . . . the arrow points to the lookout
(Hopefully, clicking on the picture will make the structure more visible)

Often times some of our best adventures are the unplanned ones . . . such was the case when we decided to take this different route back to Escalante.  It's always fun to think back on what it must have been like to live and work here in the 1930's.  We often take for granted our paved roads that cut miles and hours off a route and forget what these early settlers had to do to travel between Escalante and Boulder.  What they accomplished was certainly incredible!

Lower Calf Creek Falls

You would think in the 28 years we've lived in Southern Utah that we might have hiked to Lower Calf Creek Falls . . . nope!  (Wouldn't have anything to do with the hordes of people we always see at the trailhead parking area, would it?) But, on this trip to Escalante, we made a point of completing this popular trail of the Grand Staircase National Monument.  We also decided we might as well knock out the Upper Falls, as well, but that would be a hike for tomorrow . . . today we need to find out what makes this Falls so popular.

If we're going to beat the crowds we need to start early . . . it was a cool 44 degrees!
(We began at 8:00am and there were only three other vehicles in the parking area)

Claret Cup Cacti

The trail follows the canyon floor the entire way . . . 
You are constantly looking up at beautiful cliffs and enjoying a gorgeous desert stream

A good portion of the trail is sandy (but not deep sand) and elevation gains (500 ft)
are minimal as you work your way up the canyon

Calf Creek had several bog areas that have been created by the local beavers . . . 
Many dams can be seen along the way

Several miles up the canyon you will come to this distinctive water stained cliff (interpretive marker #8) . . .
What's so unique about this cliff?  See the next picture for what's hiding at it's base

You will need binoculars to see these Fremont style pictographs . . .
They are actually life size or slightly larger according to the interpretive pamphlet

More gorgeous cliffs . . . 
There is occasional shade, but be prepared for an exposed trail for the majority of the path . . . 
Just our way of saying, bring lots of water!

Fremont mahonia were in bloom along the trail . . .
The strong honey fragrance couldn't be missed as we passed by

A nice alcove that wants to become a natural bridge . . . in a few years!

Starting early had it's advantages . . .
One, of course, being the morning shade as the sun tried it's best to get over the cliffs

Spotted Towhee

Okay, maybe this is going to be better than expected!
(That's a drop of a 125 feet)

Another advantage of starting early . . . only four other people at the Falls

Yep, we'd have to say these Falls are a real gem . . . we see why they are so popular!

28 years later and we finally made it . . . why did we wait so long?

Heading back and admiring another pond made by those industrious beavers

Almost back . . .
These rock formations just don't get old

It was really starting to warm up by the time we returned to the parking lot . . . 
This has become Allison's drink of refreshment after our hikes . . . it's delicious!

This hike was much better than we anticipated!  The big deterrent, for us, has always been the crowded parking lots (which were overflowing when we returned) and the mass of human beings on the trail.  However, after enjoying the Falls for ourselves, we can't blame anyone for wanting to come and see this special place.  You would think, at a little over six miles (r/t), and little shade that many would think twice at doing this hike, but it seems the beauty of the Falls overrides most people's concerns . . . we can see why!  Don't wait to do this hike like we did . . . it's totally worth it!